Instructions

Installation and Setup Instructions for the OMEGA Valve

Installation

Tuning instructions are below

Make sure your gun is empty.

Live to fight another day.

Remove your old valve.

Per Sig's instructions, press in the gas regulator retaining pin, and rotate the valve 180 degrees, allowing you to pull the valve straight out of the gas block. Now would be a good time to give the inside of the block a little wipe down and get any excess carbon gunk out of there. I'd suggest brushing it with a brass brush, too. Note: you may have to remove your hand guard and/or silencer first.

Install the OMEGA Valve

Hit the OMEGA Valve with a touch of CLP to get it in the mood, then insert it into the gas block with the three flanges facing up. Press in the gas regulator retaining pin, and rotate the OMEGA Valve until the retaining pin is aligned with the side of or in-between the flanges. Release the pin. Your OMEGA Valve is now installed and captured in the gas block.

The numbers, WHAT DO THEY MEAN?!

The following description of the indicia pertain to valves delivered prior to August 1st, 2025. For valves delivered after August 1st, 2025, keep scrolling til you find the video.

Don't look down your muzzle

But this diagram shows how the retaining pin aligns with the different positions on the valve as it is rotated within the gas block. This view is from the muzzle.

The numbers that run circumferentially around the valve will align with the pin. For this example, the valve is in Position 1, and the number "1" is aligned over top of the pin.

This is a more forward view of the valve in Position 2. Note that once again, the number on the valve is aligned with the pin.

UPDATED NUMBER POSITIONS (POST 8/1/25)

Installation Video

Deeper Installation and Tuning Overview

Tuning Instructions

The tuning procedure for the OMEGA Valve is as follows:

1. Obviously make sure you safely install the valve and your silencer of choice. I recommend removing your handguard to make this initial adjustment easier.

2. Install the solid set screw (it should be installed already). Honestly, I usually remove the valve from the gas block if a screw swap is ever needed, that way you're not screwing around (*wink*) at the business end of your weapon.

3. Rotate the valve to Position 1 (turn all the way toward the left side of the rifle).

4. Insert one round into a magazine, insert the magazine into the weapon, and fire.

5. Assuming that it didn't lock back on the empty mag in position 1, try moving to Position 2, then Position 3, then Position 4 if necessary, shooting one round over an empty mag each time.

You should have definitely had a lock back by now.

6. When you reach a successful lock back, note the behavior of your rifle. Did it send the brass flying a relatively far distance, forward of your position? Was the recoil impulse as snappy as it was before? Did you catch a gas facial?

7. If the answer to those questions was yes, try a jet screw. Increase the size of the jet screw until you are satisfied with your rifle's behavior.

This is about balance. You must find the balance between restricting with the gas port and venting with the jet screw. The balance between comfort and reliability. Once you find that sweet spot, it will be perfectly balanced, as all things should be.

Just kidding, but seriously, once you find the right setting for you, it should pretty much be a set and forget situation. I would write down the gas position and jet screw size that worked best for you in case you switch silencers, as you will likely have to retune for each one.

WARNING: LIKE ANY OTHER PART OF A GAS PISTON SYSTEM, THIS BAD BOY GETS HOT UNDER SUSTAINED FIRE. PLEASE ALLOW IT TO COOL BEFORE HANDLING.

Make sure you check out my data table (located here) for some potential starting points. If a configuration is on that table, it means that I achieve favorable behavioral results, as well as several consecutive lock-backs.